I walked into town yesterday to burn off a few calories and perform my favorite rituals. I had a
Frikadelle at the Kleinmarkthalle and then sat in one of my favorite cafés and read the local paper and drank a cappuccino. The café where I sit provides newspapers for its guests in the proud Viennese tradition.
A couple of days ago I was surfing on TV and caught the end of a cooking show about steamed mussels. I love steamed mussels and had already formed plans to look into buying some in town. I probably could have found fresh mussels at the Kleinmarkthalle, but I decided to check out the grocery section of Karstadt on the Zeil. Similar to department stores in France, some German department stores have a grocery section in their basement. Karstadt's location and the underground ambience in the grocery section would make this an unlikely place to shop, but it is a bit of an insider's tip for good food. There are a sushi bar, an Italian restaurant, a seafood bar, and a grill along the back wall. You can go to the butcher section and pick out a steak, and the guy at the grill will cook it for you with a choice of side dishes. Bloggerboy Junior and I recently had an excellent Filet and Rib-Eye, together with a beer for Junior and a glass of red wine for me, for about half the price that we would have had to pay in a mid-priced restaurant. The steaks were well-cooked. Anyhow, I bought two packages of 1.5 kilos each of fresh mussels (ca. 6.5 pounds total). Each package cost EUR 9.90. I bought a fresh baguette, some fresh chives and a little package of spices for mussels that was sold at the fish counter. We had tomatoes, onions and white wine at home.
Mussels are so simple to make that I did not really follow a recipe. I spent a few minutes on the web researching the art of cooking mussels. I found
this hilarious video that actually is quite informative about how to deal with fresh mussels. They are supposed to be alive, and most of mine were, but I had never bothered to learn the proper technique for handling them. The mussels that I bought had been pre-cleaned. That means that their "beards" had been removed and they had been washed. They only needed to be rinsed before cooking.
For my "mise" I chopped onions and garlic and put them in one bowl. I then chopped tomatoes and chives and put them in another bowl together with the dried spices. I then rinsed the mussels and pre-sorted them. About two-thirds were closed. I tapped on the other mussels. Most of them reacted to the tapping and started to close, so they were alive. Passed. The ones that did not react, I left on the counter for a couple of minutes to see if they would show signs of life. The packages that the mussels came in also indicated that the mussels are a bit drowsy when the package is first opened. After a few minutes I weeded out the handful of mussels that were open but showed no signs of life, together with a few that had broken shells.
Next I heated a large stainless steel pot and then added enough olive oil to give the bottom of the pot a sufficient covering for the veggies. I added the onions and garlic and let them cook until glassy. Then I added the tomatoes, chives and spices together with just under half a bottle of dry white wine. I used a German pinot blanc (
Weißburgunder) from the Pfalz (Spätlese trocken). There was just enough wine left over for Frau Bloggerboy and me to have two small glasses each with the meal. Finally, I added the last drops of a bottle of Pernod. (I was drinking a
pastis and listening to jazz as I cooked, and the Pernod bottle needed to be finished off.) I let the sauce come to a rapid boil and then added the mussels and covered the pot. The instructions on the mussels package indicated a steaming time of 8 to 10 minutes. On the web I had seen recommended times of as little as three minutes and been warned that there is nothing worse than over-cooked mussels. I ended up taking out the mussels after about five minutes. I filled two large bowls with mussels and left another decent size serving in the pot. I spooned plenty of sauce over the mussels. As it turned out, most of the mussels were barely done and many of them were still closed. After we ate the mussels that were done, I took the other ones back to the stove. In the meantime, all the mussels left in the pot had opened, so I refilled our bowls with the cooked mussels and re-started the flame for the undercooked ones. Sure enough, almost all the mussels opened up after a few minutes on the stove. During cooking you need to shake the pot to re-distribute the mussels from top to bottom.
In any event, we ate until we were stuffed. With a salad and a dessert, the 3 kilos of mussels would have been enough for four persons. After I had removed the empty mussel shells from my bowl, I dipped the baguette slices in the provençale sauce. What a delight: fond memories of great meals that I've had in France, Belgium and Holland over the years.